South on the Old Kentucky Road to Bean Station

The evening of 7 November the Clarks stayed in Tazwell Court House, Claiborne Co. TN after traveling 20 miles over the Cumberland Mountain (Cumberland Gap). Goodspeed’s History of Claiborne County Tennessee records court license for two public houses, Reuben Rose-tavern 1806 and John Bristoe-ordinary 1806. Either of these could have been the site where the party spent the night – cost – Taswell C. House- 4.25, gloves & socks $1.62 (1)

Clearly, William was taking the newer and easier route for his family, servants, and carriage to Bean Station, TN instead of the Boone Trace -Old Wilderness Road through the mountains, todays US 58/421, passing through Jonesville and Gate City, VA. The old route was used by Lewis and his group and later by Clark and York in 1806. 

The evening of 7 November the Clark’s recorded staying at Mr. Evins on Clinch Mountain, Grainger Co. TN – location of the tavern or home is unknown, at Evins on Cllinch 1.38, at Turnpike on Clinch M. 1.68.

After traveling 16 miles from Mr. Evins on Clinch Mountain, William arrived at Bean Station managed by James Kennedy. He told Jonathan in his letter of 8 November, a letter that he misdated, The roads are very bad thro’ the wilderness and more particularly on the Turn pike of Clinch Mountain, we have been all day Comeing 16 miles, over what they Call a turnpike road, (for) which pleasant traveling I payed 162 ½ cents. at Beans station. Kenedys 3.82 2 pair socks. 1 surcingle (horse harness) $2.35. apples & (word uncertain) 50(2) Improvements on the road were started in 1785 to upgrade the horse path and Indian Trail # 33.(3)(4) William also told Jonathan that his son, Lewis, was still very bad with a cold and he had written William P. Anderson while in Lexington to try and secure Gov. Lewis’ papers.(5) 

During the past two days the Clark party had crossed Clinch Mountain, a noted location for travelers of any era. The rugged road conditions Clark depicts has been replaced for  travelers today with a modern highway having beautiful vistas of the mountain with Cherokee Lake in the valley below, a worthy subject for photographers and artist. The music of the region is captured in the 17th century Scottish ballad, recorded by Woody Guthrie as Rye Whiskey and was included in Carl Sandburg’s 1927 American Songbag, as Way up on Clinch Mountain. 

Bean Station, TN was established by William Bean in 1769, the first permanent white settlement in Tennessee. Bean Station became a thriving settlement at the intersection of the Wilderness Road (running generally north and south) and the Old Stage Road between New Orleans and Washington DC. The grand old hotel was used by three Presidents, Jackson, Johnson, and Poke, in addition to Henry Clay and countless other travelers. Bean Station Hotel became a “Distributing Post-Office”, a designation of the Post Master General, where state coach passengers and mail have a temporary rest.(6) The Clark visit was before the grand old hotel was built but very likely near the same site. The original community of Bean Station is under Cherokee Lake today. The historic old hotel, pictured below, was to be dismantled by Tennessee Valley Authority in 1940 with plans to be rebuilt but sections were lost and the reconstruction was never completed.

Bean Station Tavern - Credit: U.S. National Archives and Records Administration

Sources:

(1) Goodspeed’s History of Claiborne County (joepayne.org) (Abstract: paragraph 8)

(2) Holmberg, James J., Dear Brother: Letters of William Clark to Jonathan Clark, Yale University Press, New Haven 2002, page 225.

(3) Meyer, William E, Indian Trails of the Southeast (Forty-second annual report of the Bureau of American Ethology), Gustavs Library, 2009, page 772.

(4) Holmberg, James J. Dear Brother: Letters from William Clark to Jonathan Clark, Yale University Press, New Haven, 2002, page 226, note 3.

(5) Ibid, Page 226, note 4.

(6) Coleman, J. Winston, Jr., Stage Coach Days in the Bluegrass, Standard Press, Louisville, KY, 1936, page 214 note 3.

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